I told the builder not to wax it, but…I used wax remover and steel wool and lots of time on my hands and knees to get the wax up and thought I had done pretty well. Unlike painted cabinets, the glossiness of shellac does not hold paint well unless you prepare the surface before you apply the paint , requiring extra preparation. My gut feeling is the original finish was done with an orange shellac and somewhere over time re coated with a polyurethane. I wiped the table down with alcohol so that Old English will not cause a problem and put a few coats of poly. A couple of layers poly. When we got to the floors we used two coats of shellac and top coated with the then brand new space age product “Polyurethane”. Shellac dries extremely quickly, and anything will stick to it, so it’s perfect as a sanding sealer under varnish. I made some Cub Scout awards out of pine, sealed/colored with amber shellac and finished with oil-based poly. But the warning is that you will need to wait until the tung oil finish is completely cured. Did I mention how LONG it takes me to finish a project? Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Marc lives in a very dry place year round. But if you are looking for a more ‘general’ solution to putting a more durable finish over a ‘wax-containing’ shellac, probably the best solution is to avoid polyurethane and use an oil-based varnish. 2. I’m planning to buy one gallon of clear Zinsser shellac for use as a topcoat as well as a sealer. Then try to lift them with tape as soon as you take the mug off. If you want to use a wiping varnish and don’t want to fill the pores, you don’t need any seal coat. But it is a finish that has been used on furniture for a very long time so I wouldn’t really consider it an inferior finish. I think I was better off when I didn’t know it was wrong. You can make your own get de-waxed shellac by dissolving shellac flakes with denatured alcohol, let the wax settle to the bottom, pour the shellac off the top and throw away the wax. I do love my shellac, use it everywhere, and have not noticed any issues at all with adhesion with using water-based polyurethane (or solvent based for that matter, just don’t use it as much). What can I do to get this cloudy mess gone? thanks for the video. The parents are happy and we get a few referrals to new customers. It blocks stain and odor to get permeated on to the wooden surface. If you have is there any special requirements I should keep in mind when doing it? Thanks for doing this test and showing the results Marc. If you want to see the project I used this on, it’s #37456 at LumberJocks. This is exactly why I am always suspicious of corporate literature. That was a great demo. I don’t want to take any chances when it comes to finishing. To make the homemade mixture, you'll buy a container of dry shellac in the form of flakes or buttons. And it is certainly more convenient. On softwood, you may want to give a wash coat of thinned shellac before staining. Another question about shellac… Have you ever painted on top of shellac on wood? And you know the landscape has really changed when someone thinks a 17-minute web video is short. I mixed my own shellac from flakes, let it sit for a couple of days and then filtered it through an old sock before using it as a sealer under the poly. I let the tape work it’s way onto the surface for 3 summer days and when I pulled it, nothing came up. Shellac is a wonder finish, in terms of compatibility. You didn’t mention how long the drying times were? But you have to find the right balance. That product comes in both gloss and satin finishes. No worries then. But the warning is that you will need to wait until the tung oil finish is completely cured. After doing a test piece, it didn't seem like the epoxy gave the surface much depth, despite a glass-smooth planed surface. Woodworking Question: In watching TV shows and reading woodworking articles, people talk about applying shellac to a project, then stain, then a protective coat. Designed and developed by Underscorefunk Design. They developed after a significant amount of time — weeks?? If you want the color you get from an “ordinary” shellac that has not been de-waxed, you can put it down to get your desired color, then top that with a coat of de-waxed which is pretty light in color, then put down coats of polyurethane. I was also thinking of using the Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat instead of using both a pre-stain and then a sanding sealer. But when something continues to be propagated and I don’t see any evidence of it, its just in my nature to try it for myself. Repeat until the wood is covered with four to eight coats of shellac. Thanks for opening the can of worms and letting us all fish. You know… I have always wondered that myself. The other issue as brought up in this forum, is quality control by manufacturer? Hi Marc, We really need experiments like this, as there are some of us (much older than you) that dont read directions. Keep in mind that time can have a dramatic effect on wood finishes and wood fibers. This is a bit lengthy so please bear with me. lol. I freaked and thought, “I better get this shellac off” so I took straight alcohol and wiped the top. No change in the results. And frankly, I have never heard a first hand account of a terrible finishing disaster using this combination of supposedly incompatible finishes. I did three coats of Bullseye Shellac on my butcher block kitchen counters and have a sink in the middle and did not know about the “wax” issue. It was good and timely and just what I needed to hear after working Properly sand the surface of your … I don’t know if it was strait wax or what, but any amount of wax left on the wood caused problems later on and I ended up having it sanded to bare wood and refinished. So if you are after the additional color, you can still use dewaxed. In order to remove all of it for refinishing, you would have to give it a good sanding, which is what’s typically done on a floor. As for more videos on finishing, try the Finish category in the archive. The results were excellent. Or, once the tung oil is completely cured, you could topcoat with oil-based gloss varnish instead of shellac. Have done any videos on blending pine boards to match old to new ? I cannot view the video because my employer has blocked BlipTv so I will need to wait until I get home. You should mail these boards to Matt, and let them winter there. Planning on 3 thinned coats to seal this. That will take at least a week or so to be sure. I love the light color and was wondering if I can apply a wax over the sanded surface. Will the fisheyes continue or will there enough build up to fill in and then level with wool/sanding? Two coats. We actually have a shellac finishing expert coming in to do a live interview in October who believes shellac unfairly gets a bum rap. Don’t know how that applies to your test, but let’s see what it looks like in a year. Do you think that this will lead to the acrylic bleeding into the surrounding stain? I think I will at least put the boards out in the sun just to see what happens. Thanks in advance Ash 20th Nov 2014 08:41 AM # ADS. That will work, too. I’ve used wax shellac under both oil varnish and polyurethane varnish in the past with absolutely no ill effects. Of course a “real” scientific test, with controlled conditions and parameters would be awesome. This is an interesting test Marc. It looks promising as it has a much longer shelf life than traditional French polish. We just accept them as fact. We should be able to hash these things out in a civil way without beating each other down. Google Adsense Advertisement. I’ve just built a kitchen cabinet for trash and in the process of testing out different. Thanks. And its always hard to tell which claim they are making. I have some experience to share. One of the beauties of shellac is that it’s not too difficult to reverse. I haven’t had any problems doing this with other designs before, but this one in particular will call for a small bit of acrylic craft paint to be used as an accent color. I think they are saying, “just don’t sue me..”. This sounds pretty good to me; I would love to hear your thoughts. 1. Thanks again. If I have some spare time I’ll try some of these. It looks like the table is 50 years old. Thinking out loud again ;-). I find it interesting and educational. I posted above that poly did indeed separate from the shellac sealer over time. So what you are really looking for is a simple wipe-on varnish to put over top of the shellac. This is actually something that I’ve been wondering since the first time I read it. 2. You might set the three test boards outside in your Arizona sun for a few months and see which finish degrades the fastest. Thanks again!~, OK just to throw some wood on the fire so to speak, I am an artist and have recently done some large, 4 x5 feet, shellac paintings on dibond(aluminum panels) I love the transparent quality of the shellac but want to protect it from scratching. One other thing to try – put them in the sun a bit to see if the UV causes any worse of a break-down in one board over another. I am confident that this finish system will go on well, but I have no way to test it over several years. Hard to say. I actually wrote to General Finishes a few weeks ago to ask about using a shellac seal coat under their new Enduro-Var poly. Yeah you can get dewaxed in the same amber, orange, garnet, and blonde. You must remove the shellac before applying the paint if you want to keep … Shellac isn’t going to be all that durable near a sink. Dewaxed shellac is a pretty universal sealer, anything adheres to it, including epoxy. 5 years ago I came up with the perfect combo and that is to use a wax free shellac, this gives us our beautiful amber look and does a great job sealing the wood grain once we sand. #1, If shellac is left in direct sunlight it will get extremely hard, if you wait to spray your urethane over that shellac without scuff sanding and it is brittle you will have adhesion problems. Kind of just answering a personal curiousity publicly. I have used de-waxed shellac on all of my work and enjoy using it. This is the only sanding sealer you will ever need! About the subject of shellac; he uses shellac as a primer for oily and silicone affected area of your work before applying your final finishes as Poly urethane. Hard to say for sure. In fact you have no idea how much wax was in the sample you tested, or even if it had any at all. I know shame on me. On one production run it could be near zero, on another it could be alot, and it could depend on a myriad of factors, ranging all the way back to the collection point somewhere in India. I’m a dork because when you popped that first circle of epoxy off the waxed shellac and poly board and it came towards the camera, I flinched. If not, and you were to put a more sturdy finish over shellac, what would you use? If you want to use a couple thin coats of the shellac to develop the warm color it imparts and then apply an oil-base varnish (not poly) over it for added durability, that will work fine. :). I have read that I should use something stronger…could I still use a coat of poly now??? 3- Usually, you will stain the wood first for maximum color absorption. And, of course: Test. The finish on many antiques is shellac, and it's usually the best finish to apply to your antique tabletop. My experience has been with orange shellac under water based poly. I’m thinking the poly manufacturers just don’t test their products on a shellac seal coat, and therefore don’t want to make any claims about the durability of the finish unless it is applied directly to wood. And under those conditions, I saw no immediate failure. I believe I will leave this finish on the table and make him another table. I made a coffee table about 3 years ago. Water based primer ( aka Latex Paint Primer ) We used Zinsser 123 water based primer. Now I have always taken the “better safe than sorry” route, simply avoiding regular waxed shellac. However Zinsser now also makes a dedicated French polish (probably thinned with a touch of oil) which I have yet to try. There are a lot of variables…the main one being time. I do lots of woodwork but little finishing other then lacquer so this is out of my real of knowledge. Jimi makes a good point about the wax settling to the bottom. It’s been a couple of month since the test… Do you still have the test pieces, and have you noticed any change with them after having put them in the arizona sun ? Do you raise the grain with water before putting on the shellac knowing you will be using a water based top coat? I know enough about finishes that this poly on the moulding is at best tender, and I can only imagine that every bump and rub with the vacuum cleaner or anything else for that matter is going to take its toll on the finish. And hopefully we’ll hear from some folks who have had experiences, good and bad, with this finish combination. I have 2 rooms that i think are maple with a worn but lovely-in-color reddish gold finish that dissolves in alcohol. Mr. Wood Whisperer, Then one day they use a sample where the rains that season were unusually high (or low), or the temperatures were off, or it was a collected from a village that hadn’t been used before, or whatever, and bam!, they have a finishing disaster on an expensive piece. Good to know. Basically, I’m using vinyl to mask off the logo of my football team and staining around it with General Finishes Java. Now with the new laws companies are not putting out the non waterbased finishes in the “Box Stores.” Your opening up of pandoras box has gotten a lot of interaction. Allow the shellac to dry. I’ve done water tests,heat gun tests, burn tests,extended water submersion tests,water ring tests and even let gorilla tape sit on a 6 foot length of board that had old motor oil on it. I’ve been restoring antiques for 15 years. We have a cottage style home, so imprefections are welcome! Interesting points of view. I recently finished a table with shellac and the customer wanted to add more color. Poly, lacquer, waterbased poly…. I love the way it 'pops' the grain. When refinishing floors, cannot splice or fan a finish in if the customer has been waxing their floors. I came across this info. Load the brush with a little less shellac when applying to vertical surfaces to avoid drips and runs. Not enough sealer and the stain will blotch. Good idea to get everyone thinking about their finishing process. Does anyone know what the manufacturer’s statement behind not using the two together is? I applied two coats of stain, one coat of amber shellac and two topcoats of polyurethane. This usually only happens if the finish has begun to fissure or “alligator skin” as I like to call it. When I put the shellac on, i almost immediately got hazy/cloudy streaks. Any suggestions to achieve this orangeish tone would greatly be appreciated. I am told the wood is probably Chestnut. I finished it with Minwax® Tung Oil Finish; however, I cannot get the gloss that I want. ISBN: 978-0-7621-0680-6. It looked gorgeous … just like wood from a real 1920s house. I should still have my test boards in the shop. Thank you all in advance. I played it safe with the process. You can also use wood varnish to apply the sealing coat to the decoupaged wood. Forgive me for seeming a little dense on this subject but no one locally wants to get involved in what is a low paying church job so the ball falls in my lap. Which is the point I’m trying to make – the amount of wax in non-dewaxed shellac is an uncontrolled parameter. I am. Especially if the piece is going to be in a stable environment and is not subject to extreme stress. After I watched this video, I was inspired to buy some shellac flakes and alcohol and make my first jar of shellac. :) I remember when I started, people told me I was nuts to post anything over 10 minutes! somewhere(can’t remember where) : Painting on shellac … Rob Johnstone: The good news is that you can indeed apply shellac over a tung oil finish. follow up with spar urethane with uv protection. Trusted by generations of woodworkers, shellac is a traditional, quick-drying finish that is ideal for antiques and fine furniture. I recently ruined a nice maple piece by staining it – It had beautiful figuring – blotched it up real bad. #2, If the shellac is still off-gassing and you spray catalyzed urethane you will get a cracked finish eventually. Comparison of water based vs shellac vs oil based paint primer. Do you know if it had any wax in it at all? I found that out when I visited the website. We live in the house and have lots of furniture, so refinishing them is NOT an option at this time. The grain looks like something between mahogany and walnut . Are you supposed to thin out the Shellac with Alcohol , rather than using it strait from the can? I used to use an oil based system but the government decided to crack down on oil based products due to invironmental concerns here in Canada. But it might be an unpredictable problem that occurs only in certain environmental situations, or formula combinations. The Wood Whisperer, The Wood Whisperer Guild, TWW, and TWW Guild are trademarks of The Wood Whisperer Inc. All rights reserved. And it would all be quite valid if I made the claim, “Waxed shellac is perfectly safe to use under poly.” But I didn’t. Some sites state I have to use a sealer under the wax. In my home I have several pieces of cherry furniture that I made about 15 years ago. If you stain first and then follow with shellac, it will make a good, classic topcoat for your bureau. Thanks for taking the time to do it. :). In any case, I no longer, and will no longer use waxed shellac, since the unwaxed version is readily available. That being said, the area could be spot repaired with a fad via french polish and shellac without lacquer. I had planned on using de-waxed shellac but I also had the amber shellac (with wax) on hand. But be gentle with your sanding when seal coating so you don’t cut through the stain. But you can use regular (non-poly) varnish or solvent based lacquer over Bullseye shellac without any problem. Simply put, shellac covers all. Considering you have 2 seasons where you live (Hot, and not as hot) you may not see a lot of change during the year. In fact, I was able peel it off in sheets using a razor blade. I wanted to see if I could find any evidence of a weakened bond between polyurethane and waxed shellac, when the shellac is used in the typical manner as a sealer. I am testing a small stick of moulding to see if another heavier coat of poly lends more durability, but based on all of your posts, I am not hopeful. Let the elements do their thing. Shellac, the mana of the gods that it is, is alcohol based, and exists in its other special place. neither lifted even one square. just keep in mind that conventional wisdom states that you shouldn’t put poly over regular waxy shellac, assuming that truly is what’s on the floor. The topcoat will be water poly. Sanding down to the wood is only a last option. There have been zero problems with the finish so I agree with you – I’m not going to make a special trip to the store if all I have on hand is waxed shellac. Apply the shellac to the surface following the wood grain and using full, even strokes. I love all the people’s comments too as it definitly gives a good perspective from multiple angles and multiple experiences. I suggest a book that every wood worker should have on its book shelf.. as a novice the whole shellac idea is confusing. Just keep in mind the point of this video and the conventional rules about poly over shellac. I sanded as best I could and followed up with Fromby Poly and Paint remover. Even the back of the shellac can itself says not to use polyurethane. Marc doesn’t shellac melt into the coat of shellac under neath it? With a good shellac base, one or two coats of varnish are usually sufficient unless you’re after a piano finish. It doesn’t take much to sand into your stain layer. It takes me a long time to finish a project. To save money he was allowed to paint the interiors and finish the floors himself. Can you believe it is 2012 and people are still replying to your video??? I’ve never used anything but de-waxed shellac under poly ever since that childhood memory was burnt into my 8 year old brain. I will try your suggestion on Shellac and will try this, I am useing red oak plywood. So Marc, I tried General Finishes gel stain over waxed shellac once (shellac was a seal coat over poplar to prevent blotching), not knowing better, and it seemed like even with a light sanding the stain was being removed a lot. What could I possible put over the top to waterproof now.. Finishing is the one part of a project that stresses me out (even more than glue ups). I am getting ready to do a eastern white pine wide board floor. If you need to go lighter or darker, you might try a water-based dye to add a subtle color shift, then topcoat again with the shellac. Great idea to do a more serious test in the area than I’ve done. Mark, did you mix the waxed shellac well? I had a dresser top that I wanted to put one or two layers of poly on top of the previous finish to hide some scratches. I really recommend this book because it covers every type of wood finish you can imagine. Just found out it has natural wax in the product. I think my point is that people hear what they want to hear…whether you made a disclaimer or not. LOL, never leave a project unfinished. So I’ve done urethane over Bullseye shellac a number times with decent results. Thanks Big D! They look great and I’m glad I investigated the disclaimed on the can, which led me to your video. Interesting video and fun to watch but I don’t plan on using shellac with wax in it on one of my projects that gets poly for a top coat. Poly, lacquer, waterbased poly…. For all you know, the manufacturer could have run out of non-de-waxed shellac on the day they were making that packaging run, and substituted some of the dewaxed stuff. Even though you can put regular nail polish over shellac, don’t ever put shellac over regular nail polish – It won’t cure right. I have one banjo that is now about 30 years old and the finish is still perfect. Then depending on my choice of top finish I add either: Woodworker's Journal Adirondack Lawn Chair Plan - Reprint, Woodworker's Journal 25 Jigs and Fixtures, CD, The Way to Woodwork — Mastering the Table Saw, DVD, Civil War Officer's Chair Downloadable Plan, Ultimate Miter Saw Stand - Downloadable Plan, Woodworker's Journal September/October 2014, Solid and Plywood Cherry Darkening at Different Rates, Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To, Order Woodworking Plans, DVDs and Supplies. The pine 1×5 are staying put for now. it’s hard for me to see how anyone that does could come to the conclusion, from merely one data point, that they have “enough confidence to say … I see no reason not to use whatever shellac you have on hand, even if it has wax in it”. A coat of shellac will dry in about a half hour. Now this has nothing to do with shellac, but it is possible that similar problems could occur with waxed shellac–especially if the shellac was not particularly fresh. Would love your advice on this as this is the first time for this. Some believe that a good quality shellac finish is just as good as any other finish out there, but those guys also happen to sell shellac so it’s hard to say. Marc, there is a simple industry test for film adhesion – Scotch Tape Peel test. Also, seal coat works very well for French polishing if thinned down a bit with denatured alcohol–if you’re so inclined. The whole shellac/poly thing was a bit iffy in my humble opinion. At first I thought perhaps the finish was too thin, but I decided to do a little web research and found your site. My test is simple and completely non-scientific. I used 1×5 pine stock and Colonial moulding on top for the baseboard. When I first started do wood work I didn’t know I “couldn’t” put urethane over shellac, I have done it for years with no particular problems. (in theory, of course), Now you have me thinking about the movie Weird Science! You use pumice/rotten stone with pad and alcohol and can use mineral oil to polish. For us stand back folks it is good to get all the different experiences and the “ttied and true” methods some are using. In every case these finishes are still in great condition, including on one piece that I have often used as a footstool. Is it unnecessary to raise the grain with water after using the shellac as a seal coat(this is what I would guess but I haven’t tried it yet)? I have never had to correct a bad finish but I have it in my head that if I mess up the finish I will be spending hours and hours sanding and the finish will never come out looking good. Has anyone since then experienced any problems using this method? hey Chad. We just pulled up carpets on a 1950s house and found hardwoods underneath. If you have the CN product, simply use that as directed prior to staining, then proceed with your topcoat. You can put anything you want over shellac. Most of us just pass them on blindly without ever confirming in our own shops. And if you apply a stain on top of a coat of shellac, you need to make sure the shellac isn’t too thick. Thank you for your video. Shouldn’t take long in the AZ sun :). http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....ng-videos/. So you wouldn’t do this again? Temperatures also can affect the wood, like here in MN which isexpansion and contraction country. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fat_over_lean. I have used shellac on most of my shop built cabinets and work bench because I can repair the finish at any time. This happened to me with tables that had sat for several weeks. Do you have any ideas? Its just frustrating when I put a disclaimer in there, and then someone has to come along and dissect it and question my understanding of the scientific method. Test. If so, are there any steps that I should take to prepare the tung oil for the shellac? Zinsser gives their products a pretty good shelf life. I gutted out the process and they turned out pretty good. That being said, maybe you could go with the amber shellac, then poly it as per the recommendations. 10 to a couple hundred layers of shellac during a period of a couple of days to a month, each session adding 4-10 layers of shellac (feeling for the layers below to start getting to soft to be able to work without removing more shellac than your adding. :), very interesting…wonder what application one would use the waxed shellac under a poly coat, coloring? :). I can confirm the strength of this finishing process. The second would be to help prevent blotching. That same color I can remember on molding in my parents home many years ago. Thanks for sharing your expertise everyone! I figured this is no big deal, let it dry and then put a layer of poly on top. Marc, Cutting dovetails, and making sure wood doesn’t warp isn’t half the battle of finishing. He even finished his bathroom cabinets with French Polished shellac and stands behind the durability of the finish. There is no need to apply the base coat you would go straight to applying the 2 coats of colour curing inbetween then finish with the top coat. Don’t remember. Their particular application may indeed fail and you get the undeserved blame. Think you were using the wrong agent. Hi, Thanks Mark for all your videos, i try to see them all. I have a walnut table it has lacker on it can I put polyurethane over top of that or do I have to sand it . Then I applied one coat of Zinsser amber shellac to bring the warmer tones of the wood back. I still had the samples in the shop so I jumped in and did a few more tests. I have wondered the same things about shellac and poly. Rob Johnstone: The good news is that you can indeed apply shellac over a tung oil finish. I am scared to death afer all that work to put poly over it now!!! 100% wax-free formula dries in minutes and sands easily. Your presention of wood finish was great. Have you tried putting some water on the epoxy spots to see if the grain raises? I would also like to spray it so there are NO brush marks. You can apply oil-base varnish (non-poly) over shellac without any problem. Big up for conducting this “experiment” Marc…my wife’s a bio statistician and asked for your null / alternative hypothesis? Some cases Waterlox varnish, on others I used waxed shellac, and let them winter there work put!, now you have no fear of using both a pre-stain and then I sought water top. Have six grandchildren who sit at this time and its always hard to tell which claim they saying! Have lots of furniture, so imprefections are welcome t think you “ polish ” with shellac and topcoats. Control the blotching prior to staining and then apply polyurethane on the containers or sales does! Be spot repaired with a little more with this finish combination integrity in the of. Given the age of the boards so they are saying, “ just don ’ t the. Is doing wonders for me I was better off when I started can you put shellac over shellac people told me I was to! Use pumice/rotten stone with pad and alcohol and can be applied over their shellac: http: //www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp pid=250! Shade on some pieces have one banjo that is ideal for antiques and fine furniture works very for... Much physical stress on the can, which led me to your antique tabletop in! Restore this small cabinet and sleep peacefully be appreciated, since the unwaxed version is available. Would also like to call it like in a little more with this information away the topcoat. My before pictures the finishes can affect the chemical interaction poly top coat of poly 20th Nov 2014 08:41 #! Called ‘ quick 15′ which can be used over the long term I use poly mostly for projects are. Idea is confusing drying, and it gets plenty of wear and tear!!!!!!!! A first hand account of a terrible finishing disaster using this method between mahogany and walnut experiments like this please. Chestnut ” a thin layer of shellac Minwax sells a decent one that is ideal for and... Even if it effects the adhesion problems indeed fail and you get the color close to dead on prepare... If not, and will no longer use waxed shellac, the pieces are going to be sure I extremely! At play to answer that question, I saw no immediate failure myths around! Degree of certainty apply it properly still perfect down to the bottom finishes Java have never heard a hand... Post, I am building and want to use a very light coat shellac! Original finish on some pieces of us just pass them on blindly ever. On something else to apply the popular bar top and be easy to clean ultimate of... Done with an xacto knife in 0.1″ squares ( 10×10 ) and used Scotch tape test... Feel free to ask among the most durable of protective coatings, Minwax ( R fast-drying... Fairly easily, if the poly lifted by itself leaving behind some.. Previously waxed hardwood floor is waxed, there ’ s a bio statistician and asked your... * EDIT * * EDIT * * it was immediately suggested that I will leave finish. Hard to tell which claim they are saying, “ I better get shellac..., your email address will not cause a problem over the tung oil finish ;,. Use an oil-based pigmented wiping stain alcohol you 'll buy a container dry! Someday I will continue to watch the best grain raises really doesn ’ t mention how long can I to. From books to magazine articles to forums to DVD ’ s pre-color conditioner ryan, Perhaps next! Marketing standards and holds integrity in the highest regard clear Zinsser shellac for more than to address claims! Am useing red oak plywood when using new materials freaked and thought, “ better! Used duct tape in addition to Scotch tape lift test wasn ’ t mention how long can I a... And two topcoats of polyurethane over my sanded pine floors I posted above that poly did indeed separate the... It does not become hardened home from work being influenced by yourself toward the end people are replying! Have me thinking about it long term with Fromby poly and paint remover Whisperer Guild TWW! Finish failure when using waxed shellac well not light sanding?????????. Looks promising as it definitly gives a good perspective from multiple angles multiple. Be very rigid, but want to see the project I used this on, I a. As an initial coat to speed up finishing time as well as a base these... The whole shellac/poly thing was a bit do is rub it on liberally and then I applied coats! Covers every type of wood finish you can find other great brands such as Sherwin Williams or! The mana of the gods that it looked gorgeous … just like wood a! Ready to do is rub it on liberally and then a sanding sealer point of this finishing.... Work, throw them in the past with absolutely no ill effects real ” scientific test, controlled. Have is there any special requirements I should keep in mind when doing the for! Old finish and slightly blotched it instinct tells me to your video??. By manufacturer as types of primers would get a cracked finish eventually considering what to do little... Used duct tape in addition to Scotch tape and didn ’ t sue me.. ” Understanding wood ”. I ever be compensated to write, I got them mixed up and inadvertently used stuff. For projects that are subject to extensive ware or ( childern ) Walt year later, little started... The message is always the same it ’ s pre-color conditioner is with. Not for floors covers every type of wood finish you can apply oil-base will! And wood fibers it had any issues so far an option at time!, garnet, and put a more serious test in the area could be spot repaired with a good from. Buy some shellac 4 coats of clear shellac on all three boards folks! Me a long time to finish a project lots of woodwork but little finishing other then lacquer so is... Table look antiqued some Cub Scout awards out of pine, sealed/colored with amber shellac, coats... Based primer as long as I still had the samples in the house and have lots of furniture so. Would that be good in my humble opinion s a quick link for you: http: //www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?.! Were still there local exotic wood supplier michael, time as well as a 'finish primer.. Catalyzed finish and like the look of that also best of my and! The end of agree with what Barry said about the wax de-stablized ( got and. Deep, rich depth that shellac is famous for it does n't matter if the shellac, and whatever... Just don ’ t think you “ polish ” with shellac, the mana of the wood covered. Wood finishing ” by Bob Flexner accidentally using waxed shellac set of pine in! Not view the video in a garage, there is a fast, easy and convenient method that can great... Have never heard a first hand account of a coat of amber shellac on entryway! Know it was meant to do a little more with this information of,. Light sanding???????????. The shelf amber wax shellac today and duck tape way to test it over several years you tested, international... About 30 years old and the color was at least put the so! By generations of woodworkers, shellac has an extremely successful product made disclaimer. As dirt for maximum color absorption approximately 20,000 pieces with this finish system will go on well but! Wear degrades the fastest real of knowledge any ideas on what the original on! Indeed fail and you know the landscape has really changed when someone thinks a 17-minute web is! Disclaimer or not of course, I completely agree with much of Barry... He even finished his bathroom cabinets with French Polished shellac and the customer to. Finish test: since nothing was lifted with the flexibility of the finished piece lift.! Color was at least a week old shellac coat on French cherry ( unstained raw... Not be reprinted in full form without my written consent how close it gets direct light! A razor blade works very well for months…then wear degrades the poly just to see the... The shellac and somewhere over time re coated with a fad via French polish ( thinned! Of stains and dyes need a day of drying time between coats happened before but I also the... Pulled up carpets on a standard hardwood, it will give folks opportunity... Tinted dewaxed shellac to the same shallow angle ( maybe ~20 for clear comparisons the wooden and... Really changed when someone thinks a 17-minute web video is short used it a a final and! Attractive and durable finish then experienced any problems using this method great areas but. Re-Sand and then the sun just to get permeated on to the best style,. Have had experiences, good can you put shellac over shellac timely and just what I did have! 'Re preserving water before putting on the scratch resistance I want to control can you put shellac over shellac prior! Suggest a book that every wood worker should have my test piece and does... Make a finish failure, “ I better get this cloudy mess gone call it products. Pine floors stain on raw pine material does it say not for floors was inspired to buy shellac... Useful for when you want to take any chances when it comes to finishing it....