The screw slots in the bracket are elongated, where you may be able to adjust it a bit. Monoprice Mini 3D Printer Bed Upgrade: Add a second slave heater to allow the bed to reach 110C - by Dave White, published Aug 19, 2016. You could either do this by having it draw 1-2 skirts or use g-code to have it draw a line before it begins the print. For anyone new, the Maker Select V2 needs a lot of tinkering to get working good. While a quick fix is to simply zip tie the belts, the adjustable belt tensioners will allow for variable tension using a set screw, becoming more taut as it is tightened. The first issue I noticed was that the screws that hold the magnetic plate for the extruder are either loose or overtightened at an angle from the factory and cause the nozzle to dig into the printbed. If the slump isn’t too bad, you may be able to just unscrew it and re-position it. You would need to either A) Flash a Bootloader on the Melzi board and then flash new firmware or B) Buy a diffent board (RAMPS is a cheap, popular choice) and put new firmware on it. These are flat, thick sheets of rigid material, built to withstand the pressure created by the bed leveling screws. Begin typing your search term above and press enter to search. Last, for upgrades, I recommend replacing the bearings of the X and Y axis to longer ones. I’m glad you found the list to be helpful, it is one of those articles I felt was important considering the number of mods for these 3D printers. For PLA I use 210° extruder and 50° bed temp. Essential Mods to Upgrade Your 3D Printer (Maker Select v2). A collection of Monoprice Maker Select and Duplicator i3 upgrades and replacement parts. Most of ht eholes I do are small (for #6 – #8 screws). The MOSFET board gives a significant peace of mind (no one wants to burn out their electronics) and the Dii Cooler is a huge improvement over the stock fan shroud. Start a conversation. I have a 2018 version of this printer, and the connectors looked updated. In doing so, the upper part of the printer cannot move freely and eliminates defects in prints. In my initial rush of excitement and confusion, I actually stuck the spare sheet on top of the one which was already installed from the factory. When I first purchased my Maker Select, I already had a hefty list of mods planned before it even arrived. I am doing the Mosfet upgrade for both the hotbed and the extruder, even though I know the risk of the extruder causing a fire is low. However, simply installing a 24V PSU into the Maker Select will not resolve the problem. Several companies have created superior replacements, machined from materials such as aluminum, carbon fiber and laminates. … Changes in this Marlin fork The electrical connectors which power the heated bed are not rated for the amount of electricity it consumes, where they will eventually melt and burn out. MAKER ULTIMATE 3D. It will perform great right out of the box but you can upgrade it indefinitely with these mods, bringing the quality to exceptional levels. Shop Maker Select v2 parts, Maker Select Mini parts, as well as many products compatible with other Monoprice 3D printer models. It’s just not intuitive that a little rubber gasket would have so much effect, but it really does. If you don’t want to stop there, there are still plenty of other mods that can further enhance these 3D Printers. What could be the problem? My first guess would be that the stock MOSFET on the Melzi board has failed. The Maker Select and Wanhao Duplicator i3 are advertised as having a vertical build volume of 180mm. Great guide! Extruder Drive Gear 4 Series But An Excellent Modification For 3 Series Wanhao Duplicator, PTFE Thermal Barrier Liner For MK10/MK11 Extruder 3/4/6 Series, LED Strip Color White For 3 Series - Set 2, SD To MicroSD/TransFlash Card Converter Module, Precision Screwdriver Set For 3D Printers, Nozzle Fan For Duplicator 5 Series And 3 Series, LM8UU X 25mm Standard Replacement Bearing, FULL KIT - CNC MACHINED LEVER & EXTRUDER PLATE, PTFE NOZZLE STOCK REPLACEMENT MK10-MK11 - SIZE 0.2MM, PTFE NOZZLE STOCK REPLACEMENT MK10-MK11 - SIZE 0.3MM, PTFE NOZZLE STOCK REPLACEMENT MK10-MK11 - SIZE 0.4MM, NOZZLE FOR MK10-MK11 ALL METAL HOTEND - A2 HARDENED STEEL - 0.6MM, SLOTTED BLOCK KIT FOR WANHAO 3 SERIES / MONOPRICE ALL METAL HOTEND 0.4M, SLOTTED COOLING BLOCK FOR WANHAO 3 SERIES / MONOPRICE ALL METAL HOTEND 0.4MM, NOZZLE FOR MK10-MK11 ALL METAL HOTEND - A2 HARDENED STEEL - 0.4MM, M3x3 Grub Screw To Secure Heating Cartridge In Mounting Block, 3 Series Insulated Bushings (Safety Notice), BLTouch : Auto Bed Leveling Touch Sensor For 3D Printers, M4x3 Grub Screw Use To Hold The Guiding Tube In Place, Male 2 Pin Connector For Fan Or Hotend Melzi 4.4, E3D Clone V6 J-Head Hotend For Wade Extruder 1.75mm With Cooling Fan, Female 2 Pin Connector For Hotend And Fan Motherboard Side -Melzi 4.4, E3D Clone -V6 J-Head Hotend For Bowden Extruder 1.75mm With Cooling Fan. One of the most commonly recommended upgrades I’ve found (For all printers) is switching to a glass bed (Technically tempered Borosilicate). The Maker Select was my first and I bought it knowing I wanted to upgrade it for the best possible results. I believe there are several Z-Brace designs for the Plus model, usually they are rear mounted if I remember correctly. A collection of Monoprice Maker Select and Duplicator i3 upgrades and replacement parts. Guide: Installing a MOSFET Board (Maker Select V2). The Z-Brace Mods are the answer to this problem, designed to stabilize the frame and make it more rigid. I highly recommend them, but especially the Microswiss Hotend and DII Cooler (just make sure you get the right size, I had to customize it in my CAD to take 3mm off the height to make it fit). I have 0 experience with PETG or ABS, haha! Any idea why things went haywire? While you may be second guessing your purchase at this point, let me assure you that it is far from complicated and actually quite simple to do. While it could potentially be several other causes, this would be the most likely suspect. This does however require extending the wires to increase the length, where the Z-Extensions are generally the better alternative. After having it completed, it was far from the intimidating ordeal I had pictured in my head. One was loose and came out the mount. I’m personally going to switch over to Klipper here soon and see how it performs, although I haven’t decided which 3D Printer to install it on yet. 3D Printer Filament; 3D Printer Parts & Accessories; Adapters & Chargers. I have used this for quite some time with success, but you would need to print it out. ... Today we specialize in 3D printer parts and custom 3D printing services to help you get printing, stay printing, and change the world. But even the trustiest machines will need a replacement part now and then. Question: Thank you for continually keeping up with this post. Marlin 3D Printer Firmware for Monoprice Maker Select V2 (Wanhao Duplicator i3) Please use the 1.1.x branch as that is the only branch I'm modifying in this fork. https://makerware.thingiverse.com/groups/i3/forums/general/topic:26540, How to Flash a Bootloader on Melzi Boards, 6 Critical Safety Mods to Upgrade the Anet A8, 5 Calibration Tests to Achieve the Perfect 3D Prints, The 8 Best Extruder Upgrades for Creality Ender 3 [2020]. On another tack, have you done anything on upgrading the OS so that improvements can be made to the Select V2’s OS including shutting down the heaters when there is no feedback to the system? I had the same problem. Great post. If you can print one or have access to another 3D Printer, check out the Dii Cooler on Thingiverse. I spent weeks researching every ounce of information available, prepared to replace or upgrade any parts that would help improve my prints. While the Micro Swiss All-Metal Hotend is not exactly one of our essential mods, it is a massive upgrade in terms of printing capabilities. Many of the upgrades listed here would be applicable to the Plus model as well. This was never really done in the Maker Select community, but Anet A8 owners really took to doing it for some reason. It also provides a solid, flat surface that can cover any potential defects in the heated bed. Hey Brett, Unfortunately since I stuck both of my sheets together, I only had the one which did eventually wear out. I think I may be in need of the MOSFET board. The most important is the upgraded Y-Carriage Plate though, where this makes a world of difference in keeping the bed level. The machine needs to know it has different temperature settings, essentially. The fix is relatively inexpensive and where there is a possibility of excessive current going through the motherboard, a $5-6 fix is cheap insurance. Thingiverse: Original Z-Brace ModThingiverse: Modified Z-Brace ModAmazon: Z-Brace Mod Kit. Feel free to ask if you have any questions! I assume you’ve read that the Maker Select Plus (24v Electrical System) does not need the MOSFET, which is indeed true. Just bought one of these printers. MAKER SELECT PLUS. More. £234.39 £292.99. 1x Monoprice MP Select Black Mini 3D Printer V2. I had a problem with the top one. While I haven’t used Nylon, a quick search looks like it prints between 240°C to 260°C. I liked the Build Tak and kept using it as long as I could. The original plate is stamped metal which actually weakens the structural integrity and results in warping over time. When it first begins printing, does it start with the hole outlines or does it print elsewhere first? Not comfortable printing when I’m not at home. I can test the dB and print demo prints, then install them separately on the X and Y axis and test dB and demo prints again each time. Monoprice 121711 Select Mini 3D Printer V2 - Black With Heated (120 x 120 x 120 mm) Build Plate, Fully Assembled + Free Sample PLA Filament And MicroSD Card Preloaded With Printable 3D Models 3.5 out of 5 stars 2,394 $213.86 The Y-axis stepper is relatively easy to access. D7 PARTS. It sounds like I wouldn’t need the mosfet board, and I might need to find different z-brace mods? Tips, Tricks and Tutorials for 3D Printing. In doing so, the plastic PTFE tubing is no longer needed, allowing for higher temperatures and more abrasive materials to be used. I have all these mods in my printer now, plus a few other changes. What easily separates it from the latter is its integrated control box – the Maker Select v2 has a separate control box similar to the Creality CR-10S. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. As for keeping the bed level, there are quite a few things you can do. The fan housing is actually metal and came with the printer. This guide is fantastic – thanks for putting it together!! They can be 3D printed and installed with ease, raising the crossbeam by 37mm to accommodate the full build volume. Brett, thanks for this post, Some great info, been following it for a while. I actually wrote an article on the Maker Select 3-point conversion a couple years ago, you can check it out here. It is quite possible that you received a faulty MOSFET board that is responsible, where I would suggest returning it as defective and getting a replacement sent. While this is widely used among many budget printers, the problem is that the vertical (Z) axis is not well supported and wobbles during print. I’ve been a bit busy this month but I think my next article(s) will likely cover installing these, followed by a review to compare before and after results. HOME. MAKER SELECT 3D PRINTER V2. The downside is that this tubing begins to deteriorate and can even become toxic at higher temperatures (exceeding 250° Celsius). Any tips or upgrades that you know of to help with these problems? Worst case, if the problem persists, we can look elsewhere for the cause and rule that out as the source. The Y-Carriage Plate is the square metal base which is below your heated bed. Located under the print bed, the Maker Select Plus’s built-in control box contains the main electronics, including the motherboard and the power supply unit (PSU). I’ve had pretty good luck with the included build tak with the exception of having the nozzle too low and scraping the surface (won’t do that again). I removed it and things went back to normal. ... Rewiring the Heated Bed on a Monoprice Select Mini v2 3D Printer - pingle.org, published Oct 08, 2017. Definitely a noticeable difference on Benchy. Hot End Upgrade Options for Monoprice Maker Select (Wanhao Duplicator i3) The Sawppy rover project has reached a point where I need PETG for more heat-tolerant rover parts, and the stock hardware on a Maker Select isn’t good enough to deliver the prints I needed at the speed I wanted. MAKER SELECT V2. There is no better option than glass when it comes to a build surface for 3D printers. With a variety of exciting filaments available, the Micro Swiss All-Metal Hotend is a fantastic upgrade which opens a lot of doors for your 3D printer! If it is angled to the left, then autoleveling gets incorrect measurements and causes digging, angled to the right and the nozzle never reached the bed. Thanks so much for creating this list and the helpful instructions. Great info, thanx! A wide variety of adhesives can be used on glass, eliminating problems with bed adhesion and warped prints. Is the fan housing stock or are you using one like Dii Cooler? Monoprice; 3D Printing & Videos; 3D Printer Support Documents; Maker Select V2 Manual & Quick Start Guide (Part #13860) Maker Select V2 Manual & Quick Start Guide (Part #13860) There are two rails that the print head moves across. The bracket that is used to attach it to the block where the hotend comes out from is also metal. Excellent blogs. I wish I had done a before/after comparison with either video or a dB meter. Sale. The extruder just doesn’t draw enough current to make this a concern, though I suppose it won’t hurt anything if you decide to anyways. This will give you a sense of what’s involved: https://makerware.thingiverse.com/groups/i3/forums/general/topic:26540 Excellent balance of capabilities and user friendliness. The modified z-brace mod looks like it will work better, so I’ll give that a shot. Wishlist Quick View MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2 Black (UK Power Adapter) by Monoprice. Thanks for bringing this up though, definitely want to look more into them soon! Adding an external mosfet board to the Monoprice Maker Select should be done before you even start printing. Monoprice MP Maker Pro Mk.1, Auto Level, Touch Screen, 300x300x400mm BOTH ARE THE SAME PRINTER Wanhao Duplicator 7 DLP SLA 3D Printer DUP (Direct UV Printing) Version 1.5 Get some Z-Braces on there and you can print PLA at 60 mm/s with fantastic quality. If the problem persists, you can also add additional hardware to the springs on each corner although I haven’t done this. I believe most people add a nylock nut and additional washers in between the bed and the carriage plate, right above the spring. I do have a 3 pack of Stepper Dampers I bought in December, although they are still sitting in the packaging on my desk right now. I have the all metal hot end on my V2. As I often print at 60 mm/s or higher, I have a feeling I would see those effects more so than someone printing at slower speeds. Glass is a great replacement when you reach that point, however there isn’t really any need to switch until the Build Tak is in bad condition. Adapters & Couplers; Cable Management; Computer Display Adapters; Converters; ... Maker Select 3D Printer v2 by Monoprice. It has an open structure, which makes it easy to supplement with upgrades – a necessary aspect if you want to get the most out of your 3D printer. Obviously in stock form I can only select 260 for the head, not that it ever gets there, but how can I go higher, and what mods do I need to do it to make it safe? There is a wide range of part designs readily available, including everything from belt tensioners to cooling fan shrouds. For printing tips: I find PETG prints best on my Maker select V2 at 245° extruder, 80° bed temp using hairspray to stick, and add at least a 4mm edge brim to get it flowing. The MOSFET is also a must have. 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